The second leg of fashion month has arrived—here some of our favourite runway moments.
Following a stifling heat wave in New York, the fashion crowd hopped the pond to London, where fashion month kept chugging along with another group of exciting shows and similarly warm temperatures. The week started on Friday, September 15 with a sultry presentation from Di Petsa and the latest from Ahluwalia—a collection that acted as a “celebration of unsung heroes of art and culture,” inspired by Cuban American artist Ana Mendieta. The artistry continued through Monday, the 18, when Daniel Lee presented his second runway show (and first fall collection) with Burberry. Of course, in between, London regulars like JW Anderson, Simone Rocha, and Richard Quinn all unveiled their latest designs.
Not all presented new collections this season, however. Dilara Findikoglu, who made a splash at the MTV Video Music Awards with a hair clip-covered gown on Cardi B, made the decision not to show for spring 2024 despite initial plans to do so. Findikoglu cancelled her show just days beforehand, citing financial issues to the New York Times. Other rising talents, like Nensi Dojaka and S.S. Daley also sat out this round of shows.
London has always been the go-to city for emerging designers, and that theme remained true this season. A sense of play is evident across many collections: JW Anderson’s latest almost looks like a plastic doll’s wardrobe from afar (fitting, given the intention was to toy with traditional clothing), while Simone Rocha’s whimsical garments are a bow- and rose-filled dream. Then, other designers stuck to their staples, like Chopova Lowena with its heavily-accessorised ’90s grunge-referential debut and Richard Quinn with its elegant and opulent evening wear.
Join us as we unravel the exquisite craftsmanship and boundless imagination that unfolded on the runways, leaving fashion enthusiasts all over the world in a state of awe and wonder. From jaw-dropping designs to revolutionary themes, keep reading to discover the boldest collections spotted during LFW SS’24.
BURBERRY
Designer Simone Rocha continues to captivate the hearts, eyes, and souls of fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Renowned for her enchanting collections that seamlessly blend romanticism with a touch of darkness, Rocha solidifies her position as a must-watch talent on the London Fashion Week schedule. Her Fall/Winter 2023 presentation transported us into a sinister doll house, carefully constructing a hauntingly beautiful world within the walls of London’s Methodist Central Hall. With meticulous attention to detail, she created a mesmerising atmosphere that exuded an air of mystery and intrigue. Rocha took us on a remarkable voyage to the realm of the English National Ballet. Through her collection, she unveiled a declaration of overwhelming love, skillfully balancing tension, and liberation through the infusion of theatrical motifs. Each piece in her repertoire told a unique story, intertwining elegance with a sense of dramatic flair. Simone Rocha’s creations are not merely garments but both a visual and emotional experience. By effortlessly combining contrasting elements, she compels us to acknowledge the beauty and power that can be found within the shadows. Prepare to be entranced as you immerse yourself in Rocha’s world, where love and artistry collide to create an unforgettable fashion narrative.
DAVID KOMA
Prepare to be swept away by a mesmerising fusion of floral romanticism and glamorous modernism showcased in David Koma’s extraordinary Spring/Summer 2024 show at London Fashion Week. Drawing inspiration from a captivating image of a young Elizabeth II on a motorcycle during her military service in the 1940s, Koma brilliantly translates this vision into a collection adorned with references to the iconic English rose – the epitome of floral symbolism in the United Kingdom. The collection features an array of dresses and mini-dresses, beautifully incorporating floral motifs through intricate silhouettes, decorative elements, and striking prints. The influence of the biker world intertwines with the elegance of the English rose, creating a captivating juxtaposition that is both unexpected and alluring. A vibrant colour palette spanning from lush greens to vibrant oranges, delicate pinks, and soft lilacs, is complemented by neutral tones, timeless black, and crisp white, weaving a tapestry of visual delights.
SIMONE ROCHA
Simone Rocha’s “Dress Rehearsal” collection was showcased to the fashion world at the Mulryan Centre for Dance in Canning Town, where the English National Ballet rehearses. Here, Rocha brilliantly presented a romanticised showcase, highlighted by delightful rose details, her iconic pearls, and expertly incorporated tulle and lace elements. The collection was thoughtfully accessorised, with several standout items that are certain to attain “It” status shortly, further solidifying Rocha’s mastery of the fashion world.
ERDEM
Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu has once again left an indelible mark on the fashion industry with the unveiling of the Erdem Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Inspired by the late duch*ess of Devonshire, Deborah “Debo” Cavendish, Moralıoğlu flawlessly combines opulence and decay in a display of artistic brilliance. This collection seamlessly merges the practical with the extravagant, effortlessly blending the past with the present, showcasing Moralıoğlu’s unique vision and unmatched creativity.
JW ANDERSON
During the ongoing Milan Fashion Week, JW Anderson unveiled its Spring/Summer 2024 Menswear and Resort 2024 Womenswear collections, paying homage to the allure of simplicity and elegance found within complexity. Drawing inspiration from rugby, the collection underwent a captivating transformation, infusing sporty silhouettes and rugby stripes with a fresh perspective. The bold hues and intricate patterns of the original Cornishware ceramics provided the creative fuel for this remarkable reinterpretation. JW Anderson boldly challenges conventional norms by intertwining staple wardrobe pieces like mélange knits, supple leathers, and boldly structured tailoring, resulting in an unconventional fusion that generates a new aesthetic.
16ARLINGTON
16Arlington’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, curated by the visionary Creative Director Marco Capaldo, embarks on a captivating journey of merging contrasting realms. This ode to fleeting encounters and colliding worlds celebrates both innovation and nostalgia. Inspired by the exhilaration of a night drive filled with limitless potential, the collection weaves together a compelling narrative that empowers the wearer to surpass boundaries, embracing a sense of unbounded freedom and boundless possibilities. Capaldo beautifully encapsulates this essence as “the liberation that accompanies taking control of the steering wheel and venturing into the unknown”, where individuals can venture anywhere and transform into anyone they desire to be.
